In Search of Ceramics the Traveller’s Way. Such is the pervasion of global mass production today, that the sense of romance in bringing home unique mementoes while on our travels has diminished considerably. It is now much more difficult to seek out truly individual items from faraway places. Then there is the familiar, gut-wrenching discovery that the handpainted wall plate that looked so right at a market stall on a hot, carefree day, and that we have packaged and hauled home, doesn’t quite have the same appeal on our own living room wall on a winter’s night. But with persistence and a careful eye, there are still many truly unique finds, and those of us with a penchant for seeking out more remote places, will not be disappointed.

One such place is the Southern Italian region of Puglia, the peninsular that forms the heel of that country’s boot, and known as the “Balcony”, owing to its position between the Adriatic and Ionian Seas.

Already captivating with its dramatic coastline, its history is rich and varied due to its vulnerability to invasions, and over many centuries, the Greeks, Turks, Moors, Pagans, Christians and Muslims have all left their mark here, with abandoned monasteries and simple stone buildings appearing randomly throughout the flat, red landscape, and with squat, sturdy defensive towers perched haphazardly along its shores.

By contrast, the town of Lecce, offers some of the finest Baroque architecture anywhere in the world, and you can quickly lose count of the sheer quantity of exquisitely decorated churches in the
small towns, which appear between the endless stretches of olive groves and vineyards.

More fascinating still are the number of caves that form a natural part of the landscape, and the way in which these were used by local people to hide out during so many invasions. Here, some survivors
occasionally remained to settle their own communities, and such was the formation of Grottaglie, a small town approximately twelve miles east of the coastal town of Taranto. Not only did Grottaglie provide a haven for its inhabitants,
but its surrounding area was also blessed with an abundance of clay soil, making it a natural place to form and fire pottery.

The earliest objects, dated to 4th Century B.C., were made for simple utilitarian use, and initiated an evolution in ceramic making that still thrives today. Workshops line every winding street of
this compact town, some still ensconced within the caves which initially housed them, and run by subsequent generations of the original families. While the kilns are now all electric, the quality of the end result remains unchanged, and you will find designs that will appeal to every eye, from early, folkloric pieces, painted in shades of blue, dark green, yellow ochre and manganese, to the most contemporary of shapes, with clean lines and dramatic colors, and much sought after by the
design houses of Milan.

The fired finishes range from rustic, unpainted terra cottas to highly glazed sophisticated raised motifs, and the spontaneous way in which the patterns have echoed Italy’s own great artistic history,
results in an abundance of choices. You will find endless selections of tableware and serving pieces, as well as stylized decorative objects, such fruits, flowers, candle holders, cavaliers, and their
famous and folkloric “Pupa”, whose legend emanates from Feudal times, when a law permitted landowners to “deflower” any prospective bride. Such was the rage of one vintner that he disguised himself as a woman in order to confront an intending
nobleman. Owing to the fact however, that he had forgotten to shave off his mustache, his plot was short lived, and as punishment,
he was ordered to supply his best wines in flasks fashioned after his costume. These whimsical Ceramic figures are still available in every size and style.

While most of Grottaglie’s wares can be ordered and shipped, a visit to the region is well worth while, with its mixture of agricultural life and generous evidence of a long and varied history, not to
mention the outstanding array of fresh, local foods. For those who prefer to steer themselves away from the usual tourist routes, Puglia remains largely unchanged, and principally a destination for Italians. The ceramics are available throughout the year, but since it is too hot for successful firing during the summer, the ceramicists
themselves are more available to chat and show their wares and no doubt, invite you to share their food during the winter months.

A long way to travel it may be, but a long way also from the global goods that empty us of rich memories and the appreciation for an ancient, living craft. The chances are also high of bringing home
just the right pieces and that the romance of the find will remain intact.

Grottaglie is one of twenty eight recognized ceramic cities within Italy. To see some of their wares, I invite you to check:
www.ceramistidigrottaglie.it and www.enzafasano.com.